Austria is awash with jazz festivals through July and August. Here is just a snapshot of a few to give a flavour. Intriguingly, none of them occur in major conurbations, Amazing how many there are, in contrast to a city like London, despite the country and the city having similar population, at around 9 million. They take place in mountain resorts, on farms, or in small towns and villages, One also sees how the personalities of the artistic directors really seem to matter and also creates a special atmosphere and imaginative programming.
Inntoene, Diersbach, Upper Austria, 18-20 July – https://inntoene.com
Paul Zauner’s festival in Diersbach could be regarded as “Vortex on the Farm”. Taking place near the German border at Passau it has become one of the ‘go-to’ festivals in July. The barn is cleared of hay, St Pigs Pub cleaned out and, lo and behold, we have a multi-stage venue. Since Covid ‘forced’ the festival to move its main stage from the barn to the fields, it has been able to extend the programming, such that the music extends almost non stop from afternoon to the early morning. Meanwhile there’s a sociable meeting place in the farmyard with fresh food and tasty wines,
There are 38 shows over the three days. Highlights include Yaron Herman, Tyreek McDole, the rising star who is equally at home as trumpeter or vocalist. James Brandon Lewis is there this time with the punk-jazz group the Messthetics. Even higher energy than when he played the Vortex in May, no doubt.
Paul Zauner has a great love of the London scene. Hans Koller comes in a quintet along with his son Louis, saxophonist John O’Gallagher and Steve Berry. Heidi Vogel appears in a trio including Liam Noble. Star poet-musician Anthony Joseph will be there in a band with Dave Okumu on guitar. There is also a residency by curators from the Whirlpool series, the year-long project for new graduates which has been initiated at the Vortex. Musicians such as Kasper Rietkerk, Rebecka Edlund and Jakub Klimiuk will be there for the three days.

Konfrontationen Nickelsdorf, Burgenland 25-27 July – https://konfrontationen.at
In a marquee behind a cafe in a small village right on the border with Hungary, Hans Falb started a festival 45 years ago. Still the master behind the programme, it is a mouthwatering selection of the best of the improv scene. This year, for example, it includes Pat Thomas’s [ahmed], legendary pianist Alexander von Schlippenbach, Christian Martien in a quartet including Tobias Delius. And once the gigs end, the party goes on till dawn.

Outreach Festival, Schwaz, Tyrol, 7-9 August – https://www.outreachmusic.org
“From Deception To Connection – The Nothingness Of Big Lies Versus Shared Intelligence Of Music.” There’s always an appropriate theme to Outreach in Schwaz, a beautiful Baroque town about 30 minutes from Innsbruck. It’s the brainchild of thoughtful trumpeter Franz Hackl, originally from Schwaz, but now resident for much of the year in New York.
A top group of educators from New York take part in a summer school, which then for a weekend morphs into a high profile festival. Intriguingly every night all three bands stay on the stage and undertake a sort of relay where each undertakes short sets, with no intermission.
There’s an overlap here with Inntoene, as Paul Zauner, the Inntoene boss, here comes with his own band. Meanwhile, Franz Hackl also appears at both festivals with powerhouse trio of the bass trombone Dave Taylor and French horn player John Clark, who virtually invented how that instrument can be used for jazz. All these, musically directed by pianist Leo Genovese, another friend of the festival, were the musical ‘team’ for the Grammy-winning album of Puerto Rican rapper Residente. London’s own young star trumpeter Alexandra Ridout will be there. Joint curator Clemens Rofner ensures that there’s a good selection of some of the exciting groups out of Vienna, such as ACT star David Helbock’s Random Control, the quartet of saxophonist Anna Tsombanis with two double basses, and outrageous guitarist Andi Tausch, also to be heard at Suedtirol.

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Bezau Beatz, Vorarlberg, 7-10 August – www.bezaubeatz.at
Alfred Vogel has been running his festival for 18 years, in the beautiful Bregenzerwald. Much more “full on” than many others, being totally aware of the crossover of analogue vinyl and electro beats, a highlight of the festival is a solo performance by leading French pianist Benoît Delbecq.

Jazzbühne Lech, Lech am Arlberg, Vorarlberg, 12-16 August – https://jazzbuehne-lech.at
Could this be the jazz festival at the highest altitude? At 1450 metres, Lech is known for being a stunning resort. Add to this the new Dorfhus, an incredible quality concert hall finished last year, there is the perfect location to enjoy the jazz after a day hiking. Jazzbuehne has been running for over 10 years, programmed with love by local resident Philip Waldhart. The aim is to “present outstanding musicians in an intimate atmosphere and amidst the impressive mountain landscape”.
Each year there are a range of musicians from across Europe, such as from Azerbaijan (solo pianist Abuzar Manafzade) and Finland (Ida Alanen Trio), balanced with a couple of bigger names, often with a connection to ECM,. That link this year is Dutch pianist Rembrandt Frerichs. The other well-known name is German trumpeter Sebastian Studnitzky with Andrei Pokasz on the first night. One band a night, with Austrian wine to match the quality of the music.

Jazzfestival Saalfelden, Salzburg, 21-24 August – https://www.jazzsaalfelden.com/en
With the strap line, “Celebrating Courage, Risk, and Innovation”, this is unarguably one of the leading imaginative festivals in Europe, now running for 45 years . That the programme has 184 artists from 26 countries says it all? Again up in the mountains, this time an hour south on Salzburg, the programme is mouthwatering for all lovers of contemporary jazz. Too many highlights to mention, but performances there include the European premiere of a stunning quartet of Dave King, Reid Anderson, Chris Potter and Craig Taborn, and a full cross section of exciting performers from across Europe including Laura Jurd. There’s a particular emphasis, unsurprisingly, on the dynamic Austrian scene, such as a series of “flashmob” concerts by drummer Valentin Schuster around town,. As well as concerts in Saalfelden itself, curator Mario Steidl makes sure that the mountains are fully appreciated with gigs in mountain huts and combined with hikes.